Department of Biology

Aarhus University Seal

Henrik Balslev

Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand

Research output: Contribution to journal/Conference contribution in journal/Contribution to newspaperJournal articleResearchpeer-review

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Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand. / Junsongduang, Auemporn; Sirithip, Kanokkorn; Inta, Angkhana et al.

In: Economic Botany, Vol. 71, No. 3, 09.2017, p. 241-255.

Research output: Contribution to journal/Conference contribution in journal/Contribution to newspaperJournal articleResearchpeer-review

Harvard

Junsongduang, A, Sirithip, K, Inta, A, Nachai, R, Onputtha, B, Tanming, W & Balslev, H 2017, 'Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand', Economic Botany, vol. 71, no. 3, pp. 241-255. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12231-017-9390-2

APA

Junsongduang, A., Sirithip, K., Inta, A., Nachai, R., Onputtha, B., Tanming, W., & Balslev, H. (2017). Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand. Economic Botany, 71(3), 241-255. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12231-017-9390-2

CBE

Junsongduang A, Sirithip K, Inta A, Nachai R, Onputtha B, Tanming W, Balslev H. 2017. Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand. Economic Botany. 71(3):241-255. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12231-017-9390-2

MLA

Vancouver

Junsongduang A, Sirithip K, Inta A, Nachai R, Onputtha B, Tanming W et al. Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand. Economic Botany. 2017 Sep;71(3):241-255. doi: 10.1007/s12231-017-9390-2

Author

Junsongduang, Auemporn ; Sirithip, Kanokkorn ; Inta, Angkhana et al. / Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand. In: Economic Botany. 2017 ; Vol. 71, No. 3. pp. 241-255.

Bibtex

@article{87ca9860fd3b48d2a9a1f084c3a0b525,
title = "Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand",
abstract = "The objective of this study was to document the traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing by the Tai-Lao ethnic group in Roi Et province in northeastern Thailand. Traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing is disappearing because of modernization including new lifestyles, urbanization, and the introduction of synthetic colors. Textile dyeing with local plants, however, is experiencing a revival connected to ecotourism and global interest in natural products. To exploit that potential, it is important to preserve the local knowledge related to textile dyeing. We interviewed 60 Tai-Lao informants in 15 villages and 9 districts about their dyeing traditions and the species used through individual semi-structured and focus groups interviews. A total of 56 species in 50 genera and 31 families were used for dyeing cotton and silks; most species belonged to Fabaceae (11 spp., 19%) and Anacardiaceae (5 spp., 9%). Trees (36 spp., 65%) were the best represented life form among the dye plants, followed by shrubs and herbs (8 spp., 16% each), and climbers (4 spp., 7%). Bark was the plant part most commonly used for dyeing (25 spp., 42%) followed by leaves (12 spp., 20%), and fruits (9 spp., 15%). Home gardens were the most common habitat of dye plant (30 spp., 53%) followed by community forests (16 spp., 28%). Indigofera tinctoria L. and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. were the most important dye plant species of the Tai-Lao ethnic group as demonstrated by their high use value index (UV = 0.60). Blue/indigo-blue was the color most informants had common knowledge about with an informant consensus factor (ICF) of 0.92 followed by black with ICF = 0.84. Ten different colors were obtained from the 56 plant species. Brown/pale-brown/golden-brown was the color obtained from most dye plant species (14 spp., 25%) followed by green/pale-green/dark-green (13 spp., 23%). Nine different kinds of mordants were used in the dyeing, including alum, chrome (potassium dichromate; K2Cr2O7), copper sulfate (CuSO4), iron oxide (Fe2O3), tamarind juice (tartaric acid), salt (NaCl), lime (calcium oxide; CaO), ash (potassium hydroxide; KOH), and mud. Among the 56 species used for textile dyeing, three are on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, including: Dipterocarpus alatus Roxb. & G.Don, Dipterocarpus obtusifolius Teijsm. ex Miq., and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. Documenting these and other species used for textile dyeing will provide additional arguments for their conservation. It will also help to secure the reappearing tradition of textile dyeing with local plants, and hence support the cultural integrity of the Tai-Lao communities, and serve as an example for other communities in Thailand and elsewhere for preserving their traditional knowledge.",
keywords = "Plant product, colors, cultural change, ecosystem services, Tai-Lao ethnicity, ethnobotany, YIELDING PLANTS, NATURAL DYES, INDIA, ETHNOBOTANY, CONSERVATION, AREAS, CHINA",
author = "Auemporn Junsongduang and Kanokkorn Sirithip and Angkhana Inta and Ratchaneeporn Nachai and Benjamas Onputtha and Wattana Tanming and Henrik Balslev",
year = "2017",
month = sep,
doi = "10.1007/s12231-017-9390-2",
language = "English",
volume = "71",
pages = "241--255",
journal = "Economic Botany",
issn = "0013-0001",
publisher = "Springer",
number = "3",

}

RIS

TY - JOUR

T1 - Diversity and Traditional Knowledge of Textile Dyeing Plants in Northeastern Thailand

AU - Junsongduang, Auemporn

AU - Sirithip, Kanokkorn

AU - Inta, Angkhana

AU - Nachai, Ratchaneeporn

AU - Onputtha, Benjamas

AU - Tanming, Wattana

AU - Balslev, Henrik

PY - 2017/9

Y1 - 2017/9

N2 - The objective of this study was to document the traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing by the Tai-Lao ethnic group in Roi Et province in northeastern Thailand. Traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing is disappearing because of modernization including new lifestyles, urbanization, and the introduction of synthetic colors. Textile dyeing with local plants, however, is experiencing a revival connected to ecotourism and global interest in natural products. To exploit that potential, it is important to preserve the local knowledge related to textile dyeing. We interviewed 60 Tai-Lao informants in 15 villages and 9 districts about their dyeing traditions and the species used through individual semi-structured and focus groups interviews. A total of 56 species in 50 genera and 31 families were used for dyeing cotton and silks; most species belonged to Fabaceae (11 spp., 19%) and Anacardiaceae (5 spp., 9%). Trees (36 spp., 65%) were the best represented life form among the dye plants, followed by shrubs and herbs (8 spp., 16% each), and climbers (4 spp., 7%). Bark was the plant part most commonly used for dyeing (25 spp., 42%) followed by leaves (12 spp., 20%), and fruits (9 spp., 15%). Home gardens were the most common habitat of dye plant (30 spp., 53%) followed by community forests (16 spp., 28%). Indigofera tinctoria L. and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. were the most important dye plant species of the Tai-Lao ethnic group as demonstrated by their high use value index (UV = 0.60). Blue/indigo-blue was the color most informants had common knowledge about with an informant consensus factor (ICF) of 0.92 followed by black with ICF = 0.84. Ten different colors were obtained from the 56 plant species. Brown/pale-brown/golden-brown was the color obtained from most dye plant species (14 spp., 25%) followed by green/pale-green/dark-green (13 spp., 23%). Nine different kinds of mordants were used in the dyeing, including alum, chrome (potassium dichromate; K2Cr2O7), copper sulfate (CuSO4), iron oxide (Fe2O3), tamarind juice (tartaric acid), salt (NaCl), lime (calcium oxide; CaO), ash (potassium hydroxide; KOH), and mud. Among the 56 species used for textile dyeing, three are on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, including: Dipterocarpus alatus Roxb. & G.Don, Dipterocarpus obtusifolius Teijsm. ex Miq., and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. Documenting these and other species used for textile dyeing will provide additional arguments for their conservation. It will also help to secure the reappearing tradition of textile dyeing with local plants, and hence support the cultural integrity of the Tai-Lao communities, and serve as an example for other communities in Thailand and elsewhere for preserving their traditional knowledge.

AB - The objective of this study was to document the traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing by the Tai-Lao ethnic group in Roi Et province in northeastern Thailand. Traditional knowledge of plants used for textile dyeing is disappearing because of modernization including new lifestyles, urbanization, and the introduction of synthetic colors. Textile dyeing with local plants, however, is experiencing a revival connected to ecotourism and global interest in natural products. To exploit that potential, it is important to preserve the local knowledge related to textile dyeing. We interviewed 60 Tai-Lao informants in 15 villages and 9 districts about their dyeing traditions and the species used through individual semi-structured and focus groups interviews. A total of 56 species in 50 genera and 31 families were used for dyeing cotton and silks; most species belonged to Fabaceae (11 spp., 19%) and Anacardiaceae (5 spp., 9%). Trees (36 spp., 65%) were the best represented life form among the dye plants, followed by shrubs and herbs (8 spp., 16% each), and climbers (4 spp., 7%). Bark was the plant part most commonly used for dyeing (25 spp., 42%) followed by leaves (12 spp., 20%), and fruits (9 spp., 15%). Home gardens were the most common habitat of dye plant (30 spp., 53%) followed by community forests (16 spp., 28%). Indigofera tinctoria L. and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. were the most important dye plant species of the Tai-Lao ethnic group as demonstrated by their high use value index (UV = 0.60). Blue/indigo-blue was the color most informants had common knowledge about with an informant consensus factor (ICF) of 0.92 followed by black with ICF = 0.84. Ten different colors were obtained from the 56 plant species. Brown/pale-brown/golden-brown was the color obtained from most dye plant species (14 spp., 25%) followed by green/pale-green/dark-green (13 spp., 23%). Nine different kinds of mordants were used in the dyeing, including alum, chrome (potassium dichromate; K2Cr2O7), copper sulfate (CuSO4), iron oxide (Fe2O3), tamarind juice (tartaric acid), salt (NaCl), lime (calcium oxide; CaO), ash (potassium hydroxide; KOH), and mud. Among the 56 species used for textile dyeing, three are on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, including: Dipterocarpus alatus Roxb. & G.Don, Dipterocarpus obtusifolius Teijsm. ex Miq., and Pterocarpus indicus Willd. Documenting these and other species used for textile dyeing will provide additional arguments for their conservation. It will also help to secure the reappearing tradition of textile dyeing with local plants, and hence support the cultural integrity of the Tai-Lao communities, and serve as an example for other communities in Thailand and elsewhere for preserving their traditional knowledge.

KW - Plant product

KW - colors

KW - cultural change

KW - ecosystem services

KW - Tai-Lao ethnicity

KW - ethnobotany

KW - YIELDING PLANTS

KW - NATURAL DYES

KW - INDIA

KW - ETHNOBOTANY

KW - CONSERVATION

KW - AREAS

KW - CHINA

U2 - 10.1007/s12231-017-9390-2

DO - 10.1007/s12231-017-9390-2

M3 - Journal article

VL - 71

SP - 241

EP - 255

JO - Economic Botany

JF - Economic Botany

SN - 0013-0001

IS - 3

ER -