TY - JOUR
T1 - Muscle strength in sport climbing
T2 - a systematic review and meta-analysis
AU - Skriver, Søren A
AU - Sørensen, Rasmus
AU - Oxfeldt, Mikkel
AU - Dalgas, Ulrik
PY - 2025/1/1
Y1 - 2025/1/1
N2 - INTRODUCTION: This study aimed to synthesize the literature comparing muscle strength and endurance characteristics between 1) sport climbers and non-climbing controls; 2) sport climbers at different performance levels; and 3) boulderers and lead climbers. EVIDENCE ACQUISITION: A systematic literature search (PubMed, Embase and SportDiscus) was performed. Inclusion criteria involved participants aged ≥18, muscular performance measurements and comparisons of either: climbers and non-climbers, boulder climbers and lead-climbers, or climbers of different levels. Meta-analyses comparing grip strength and muscle endurance of the forearm between sport climbers and non-climbers, and finger strength between boulders and lead climbers were conducted providing the standardized mean difference (SMD). EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS: A total of 960 climbers and 301 non-climbers were included in the study. The data showed: 1) Compared to non-climbers, climbers showed significantly higher grip strength: SMD 1.82 (95% CI 1.23; 2.41, P<0.001) and underarm endurance: SMD 0.70 (95% CI 0.17; 1.24, P=0.01); 2) compared to lead-climbers, boulder climbers showed significantly higher finger strength: SMD 1.08 (95% CI 0.54; 1.62, P<0.001); 3) higher-level climbers showed better finger strength, grip strength, forearm endurance and powerslap when compared to lower-level climbers. CONCLUSIONS: Climbers had superior grip strength and forearm endurance compared to non-climbers. High-level climbers exhibited better finger strength, grip strength, forearm endurance and powerslap, when compared to lower-level climbers. Finally, boulder climbers exhibited greater finger strength than lead-climbers. These findings expand our understandings of climbers' physical attributes across disciplines and levels.
AB - INTRODUCTION: This study aimed to synthesize the literature comparing muscle strength and endurance characteristics between 1) sport climbers and non-climbing controls; 2) sport climbers at different performance levels; and 3) boulderers and lead climbers. EVIDENCE ACQUISITION: A systematic literature search (PubMed, Embase and SportDiscus) was performed. Inclusion criteria involved participants aged ≥18, muscular performance measurements and comparisons of either: climbers and non-climbers, boulder climbers and lead-climbers, or climbers of different levels. Meta-analyses comparing grip strength and muscle endurance of the forearm between sport climbers and non-climbers, and finger strength between boulders and lead climbers were conducted providing the standardized mean difference (SMD). EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS: A total of 960 climbers and 301 non-climbers were included in the study. The data showed: 1) Compared to non-climbers, climbers showed significantly higher grip strength: SMD 1.82 (95% CI 1.23; 2.41, P<0.001) and underarm endurance: SMD 0.70 (95% CI 0.17; 1.24, P=0.01); 2) compared to lead-climbers, boulder climbers showed significantly higher finger strength: SMD 1.08 (95% CI 0.54; 1.62, P<0.001); 3) higher-level climbers showed better finger strength, grip strength, forearm endurance and powerslap when compared to lower-level climbers. CONCLUSIONS: Climbers had superior grip strength and forearm endurance compared to non-climbers. High-level climbers exhibited better finger strength, grip strength, forearm endurance and powerslap, when compared to lower-level climbers. Finally, boulder climbers exhibited greater finger strength than lead-climbers. These findings expand our understandings of climbers' physical attributes across disciplines and levels.
KW - Forearm/physiology
KW - Hand Strength/physiology
KW - Humans
KW - Mountaineering/physiology
KW - Muscle Strength/physiology
KW - Physical Endurance/physiology
KW - Hand strength
KW - Mountaineering
KW - Physical endurance
UR - https://www.scopus.com/pages/publications/85212991019
U2 - 10.23736/S0022-4707.24.15925-7
DO - 10.23736/S0022-4707.24.15925-7
M3 - Review
C2 - 39320025
SN - 0022-4707
VL - 65
SP - 80
EP - 89
JO - The Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness
JF - The Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness
IS - 1
ER -